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victoriadragon9

VW Jetta TDI Battery Drain & Alternator Warning Signs

Anyone else dealing with power issues in their 2003 VW Jetta TDI? My car struggles to start, lights are dim and flicker, and multiple systems act up out of nowhere. Battery voltage seems low, even though I replaced it last year. Currently at 52885km and wondering if this points to alternator problems or if I should look elsewhere. Had a bad experience at my usual shop and looking for advice before taking it in somewhere new. What should I check first and any recommendations for reliable diagnosis?

4 comment(s)

julianklein1

Had similar symptoms with my 2006 VW Passat TDI. The initial signs matched yours, weak starts, flickering lights, and electrical system quirks. After checking battery health with a multimeter, voltage readings confirmed a charging system problem. First step was testing voltage at idle (showed 12.2V) and then at 2000 rpm (stayed under 13V). A properly functioning system should maintain 13.5-14.5V while running. This pattern strongly indicated an alternator issue rather than just a battery problem. The alternator was failing to provide adequate charging voltage to maintain proper battery levels. When tested, output was at 65% capacity. The internal voltage regulator had degraded, a common wear point in these systems. Required a complete alternator replacement including new belt since the old one showed cracks. The electrical problems resolved completely after repair. This is a serious repair that requires proper diagnosis, as a failing alternator will eventually leave you stranded. Key checks before shop visit: Battery voltage (both off and running), Alternator belt condition, All cable connections for corrosion, Battery load test results This electrical problem is worth addressing quickly to prevent damage to other vehicle systems from low voltage conditions.

victoriadragon9 (Author)

Thanks for sharing your experience with the alternator issue. Really helpful info on the voltage readings. My Jetta started acting up similarly last month, dim lights, weak starts, the works. Finally got it checked at a shop after cleaning the battery terminals myself made no difference. Quick question, do you remember roughly what you paid for the full alternator replacement? Also curious if youve had any electrical problems pop up since the repair? My voltage drop symptoms seem identical to what you described and want to budget accordingly.

julianklein1

Thanks for asking about the follow-up. Actually, in my case it turned out the alternator wasnt the culprit. The mechanic found the battery was heavily discharged and showing signs of internal damage despite being relatively new. The voltage regulator was working fine, but the battery itself had developed a defect causing the voltage drop issues. After replacement, all those annoying symptoms, dim lights, weak starts, electrical glitches, completely disappeared. The charging system is now maintaining proper battery voltage levels. The repair came to 290€ including diagnostic time and the new battery. Much cheaper than an alternator replacement would have been. Havent had a single electrical issue since then, its been running perfectly for the past few months. If your voltage readings are similar to what I initially saw, definitely have them check the battery health first before assuming its the alternator. A proper power supply test can quickly identify if its a battery versus charging system problem.

victoriadragon9 (Author)

Wanted to update everyone on how this turned out. Finally got my Jetta diagnosed properly at a different shop. After testing the charging system and battery health thoroughly, they found both the alternator and voltage regulator were failing. Total repair came to 780€ including parts and labor. The mechanic showed me how the old alternator was only putting out 11.8V at idle, way below normal specs. They also found some corroded wiring near the battery that needed fixing. Been about two weeks since the repair and what a difference. No more flickering lights or weak starts. The battery voltage now stays steady at 14.2V while running, exactly where it should be. Really glad I got this sorted before getting stranded somewhere. Big thanks for all the advice about checking voltage readings, helped me explain the symptoms better to the new mechanic and get straight to the root cause.

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