Chevy Stalling Issues? Check Your Air Valve First

Had a similar issue with my 2017 Chevy Cruze last winter. Got some decent experience working on these GM engines after a few repairs. The symptoms match exactly what I dealt with, stalling, check engine light, and rough idle. My problem turned out to be a bad hose connection from the vacuum pump to the intake manifold valve. The manifold pressure was all wrong because of this leak. Had the throttle body checked too while it was in the shop, but that wasn't the culprit. Fix was pretty straightforward, replaced the defective hose and connections. Total repair came to 175 for parts and labor. Car's been running smooth since then. What's your engine size and mileage? Also, when you notice the stalling, does it happen more at idle or while driving? Might help pinpoint if you're dealing with the same air intake issue I had. Quick tip: Check all your vacuum hoses for obvious cracks or loose connections before heading to the shop. Sometimes you can spot the problem yourself.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm at 53117 KM since my last service. The stalling mostly happens at idle, especially after long drives. Just checked the vacuum lines like you suggested and noticed a small crack near the throttle body. Looks like the air intake system might be the culprit here. Going to look into replacing that hose first since it's a relatively cheap fix. The rough idle definitely gets worse when the engine's warm, which seems to match your vacuum leak symptoms. Really helpful to know about your repair costs, gives me a good baseline for what to expect.

Thanks for the mileage info, that's right around when I started having these issues too. The symptoms you're describing, especially the worsening idle problems after the engine warms up, are classic signs of a vacuum leak. That crack you found near the throttle body is likely your smoking gun. In my case, the manifold pressure readings were way off because of that faulty air supply connection. The warm engine just made the leak more obvious because the vacuum hoses get more flexible with heat. When I replaced mine, I actually went ahead and checked all the surrounding vacuum hoses while I was in there, found another one starting to crack that would've caused problems soon. Quick heads up based on my experience, while you're replacing that cracked hose, make sure to check the connections at both ends. Mine had degraded a bit at the clamp points, which wasn't obvious at first glance. Also worth inspecting the air valve assembly since you're already going to be working in that area. Sounds like you're on the right track with the DIY fix. The repair should definitely run you less than what I paid at the shop, especially since you've already diagnosed the main issue.

Thanks for all that detailed feedback. Just got back from getting those vacuum hoses replaced and wanted to update on how it went. Repair cost came in at 150, even a bit less than what you paid. The mechanic confirmed exactly what you suspected about the manifold pressure being off due to that cracked hose. They went ahead and checked the entire air valve system while they were at it. Good call on checking the connection points, turned out there was some wear on one of the clamps too, so they replaced that. The throttle body looked clean though, so that's one less thing to worry about. Car's running much smoother now, no more engine stalling or rough idle issues. Really glad I checked those vacuum hoses before taking it in. Saved me from having to pay for diagnostic time since I could show them exactly where the problem was. Thanks for helping me avoid a potentially bigger repair bill down the road.