BMW 1 Series Won't Start: Ignition Switch Problems?

Hey there! I have some experience working on cars, nothing too fancy but I've dealt with my share of issues. I had a very similar problem with my 2011 BMW 3 Series last year. The symptoms were almost identical, rough starts, stalling, and inconsistent running. I first thought it was something major, but it turned out to be just a blown fuse related to the ignition system. Got it fixed at my regular workshop for about 52 Euro, including labor. Pretty straightforward fix, honestly. Before jumping to conclusions about the ignition switch, could you share some additional details? Does it make any clicking sounds when you turn the key? Also, have you noticed any warning lights on the dashboard? These details would help pinpoint if you're dealing with the same issue I had. The 1 Series and 3 Series share quite a few components, so I might be able to help more with extra info.

Hey, thanks for sharing your experience! My car's at 139913 KM and had its last service about 3 months ago. Actually, now that you mention it, I do hear a clicking sound when turning the key, and the check engine light flickers occasionally. The car runs fine for a few minutes after starting, but then it starts acting up again. The fuse thing you mentioned sounds interesting, definitely a lot cheaper than replacing the whole ignition switch! Have you or anyone else encountered these symptoms lasting longer than just the initial start? Just trying to compare experiences before I take it in.

Hey again! Yeah, what you're describing sounds even more similar to what I experienced than I initially thought. My 3 Series did exactly the same thing, that clicking sound and flickering check engine light were exactly what I dealt with. The running-fine-then-acting-up part is super familiar too. After my fuse replacement, I actually had the issue come back about a week later. Turned out there was a bigger problem, a faulty crankshaft position sensor. That was causing the intermittent running issues you're talking about. The fuse was just a symptom, not the root cause. The sensor replacement cost me around 180 Euro, but it completely solved the problem. I'd definitely suggest getting both the fuses and sensors checked out. My car was at about 145000 KM when this happened, so we're in the same ballpark mileage-wise. The symptoms lasting beyond the initial start is actually what made my mechanic look deeper into the sensor issue rather than just stopping at the fuse replacement. Quick tip, when I had this issue, I found that if I let the car sit for about 15-20 minutes after it acted up, it would usually start again without problems. But obviously, that's just a temporary workaround, not a solution. Let me know what you find out!

Thanks so much for the detailed response! That crankshaft position sensor issue sounds exactly like what I might be dealing with. My workaround has been pretty much the same, waiting it out when it acts up. It's really helpful to know that the fuse might just be a symptom of a bigger problem. I was worried I'd end up replacing the ignition switch only to find out it wasn't the real issue. I'll definitely get both the fuses and sensors checked when I take it in. Really glad I asked here first, might've wasted money on the wrong repair otherwise! I'll make sure to let the mechanic know about the clicking sound, flickering check engine light, and the way it runs fine before acting up. The fact that your car had such similar symptoms at around the same mileage makes me pretty confident this could be the same issue. Thanks again for sharing your experience. I feel much better prepared for my workshop visit now!