alfredbaumann1
Audi Q3 Terminal 30 Starting Problem Fix Guide
4 comment(s)
alfredbaumann1 (Author)
Last serviced 2 weeks ago at 19054 KM. After checking your suggestions, I can confirm the charging system appears normal when running. The starter motor draws current correctly during testing, but the voltage drop occurs intermittently before cranking. The ignition switch readings are within spec, yet the inconsistent power delivery persists. I monitored the voltage at different points along the wiring harness and found fluctuating readings specifically near the main power distribution box. Will check all ground connections next, as the electrical fault symptoms match your battery diagnosis. The workshop report from my recent service shows good battery health, suggesting the issue likely lies elsewhere in the circuit. The symptoms are identical regardless of temperature, and no warning lights appear during operation. Perhaps focusing on the wiring harness connections near the distribution box would be the logical next step?
hanneseagle17
After reading your latest feedback, Im increasingly convinced our issues might have different root causes. While my Q5s problem was battery-related, your voltage readings and symptoms point more toward a potential short circuit in the wiring harness near the distribution box. The consistent readings from your starter motor and normal charging system behavior mirror what a faulty connection or intermittent short would show. Since your battery tests good, the voltage drop before cranking strongly suggests a wiring issue. In my ongoing electrical fault diagnosis, I learned that seemingly good voltage readings at rest dont always tell the full story. The workshop should focus on: Testing wire continuity under load conditions, Checking for resistance at all major connection points, Inspecting the circuit breaker and fuse box mounting points, Verifying terminal tightness at the distribution box A voltage drop test between the battery positive and the starter motor solenoid during cranking would help pinpoint the exact location. If the readings fluctuate specifically near the distribution box, theres likely a loose connection or damaged wire section causing the inconsistent power delivery. The repair cost might range between 150-400 Euro depending on whether its a simple connection fix or requires harness replacement. Do you notice any correlation between the starting issues and when the vehicle sits for extended periods?
alfredbaumann1 (Author)
Looking at your detailed response, I agree we might be dealing with different issues. Your experience with the Q5 makes me think I should indeed focus on investigating the wiring harness section near the distribution box, since my battery checks out fine. The voltage tests I did confirm normal starter motor function, but the power supply inconsistency before cranking really does point to a connection issue somewhere in the circuit. There is no correlation with extended parking periods, which supports the theory of a wiring-related electrical fault rather than a battery problem. Based on the diagnostic steps you outlined, I will start with a comprehensive check of the wiring harness connections and circuit breaker mounting points. The fluctuating readings near the distribution box seem to be the key indicator here. I will also get the workshop to perform voltage drop tests under load conditions, focusing on that specific area. The cost estimate helps set expectations if repairs are needed. Before booking the workshop appointment, I will double-check all accessible ground connections and terminal tightness at the distribution box. This systematic approach should help identify the root cause of my starting issues.
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hanneseagle17
Having seen similar issues with my 2013 Audi Q5 diesel, I can share some relevant experience. With some basic automotive electrical knowledge, I dealt with comparable starting problems. The symptoms you describe match what I encountered, sluggish cranking often indicates a voltage drop issue. In my case, the wiring harness connections were fine, but the battery had deteriorated significantly, causing inconsistent power delivery. After initial voltage tests showed fluctuating readings, my workshop conducted a thorough electrical fault diagnosis. They found the battery was not just discharged but had internal cell damage. The complete diagnosis and replacement cost me 290 Euro. Key checkpoints they covered: Full battery load test, Testing for parasitic draws, Checking alternator output, Verifying all ground connections, Inspecting the circuit breaker connections Before proceeding further, could you share: How old is your current battery? Are there any other electrical issues like dim lights or slow power windows? Have you noticed the problem getting worse in cold weather? Does the battery warning light come on while driving? This information would help determine if your situation matches what I experienced and guide the next diagnostic steps.